Bistro cooking is a joy to experience
Several years ago I experienced French cooking in Paris. In France there are bistros, brassieres, cafes and wine bars. Each type of establishment has its own personality. Bistros are found all over France, but in Paris they may be tucked in alleys or behind other storefronts.
The French Bistro, much like the Italian Trattoria, is food served in a "family way," meaning the establishment was created originally as an extension of the home kitchen out of the basements or front rooms of homes. Initially, they were neighborhood watering holes that were more about drinking than eating.
Bistros are synonymous with simplicity — serving moderately priced food such as crusty breads and soups and one-dish meals often written on a chalkboard and subject to change daily. The ingredients are basic to each region of France and the preparation does not require fancy equipment or technique, as the vintage kitchens were not equipped with modern appliances. Bistro fare is not expensive or complicated and, like family comfort food, it never goes out of style.
This is why authentic bistro fare is the essence of French cuisine from region to region.
Unlike Julia Child's exquisite Beef Bourguignon with a lengthy ingredient list and burgundy wine, boeuf carbonnade a la flamande (or beef and beer stew) is more of a 'throw in the pot' meal christened with hearty ale instead of wine. This also has quite a few ingredients but is less labor intensive.
The French love their potatoes, so it is not surprising to find savory potato gratins on bistro menus. One gratin in particular calls for potato slices to be combined with a special cheese called reblochon, which was named for a particular region in the 1980s to solicit sales of this cheese — alas, not to be found in this area. So rather than risk the wrath of French with a substitute, another insanely delicious accoutrement to roasted meats or fowl might be their Savoyarde potatoes. It is a dish native to the Savoy region of France, rich with Gruyere cheese and a crusty breadcrumb topping. This is very similar to Dauphonoise potatoes from the neighboring Dauphine region, but this version incorporates more liquid.
When one thinks of French desserts, one often thinks crème brulee with a shudder of intimidation. No need to be put off as it is truly one of the easiest desserts to prepare and especially appealing as it can be prepared well ahead of serving time — a day or so. The biggest challenge is caramelizing the top, which can be done in the oven under the broiler or with your own personal torch (consider this a culinary investment, if you're serious about cooking and you will use it time and again).
Additionally, it is easy to add your personal touch to this creamy concoction, whether you prefer raspberries, coffee or a particular liqueur to flavor the custard. The topping is paramount to the dessert so make sure you get it right.
Bon appetit.
FLEMISH BEEF AND BEER STEW
Serves 4
2 pounds beef chuck cut into 3-inch by 3-inch thick slices
1/4 cup flour, Kosher salt and pepper
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 slices finely chopped bacon
4 finely chopped garlic cloves
3 medium onions, sliced
3 medium carrots, thickly sliced on the diagonal
2 bottles of Belgian ale
1 cup beef stock or consommé
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 bay leaf
Season beef with salt, pepper and dust with flour. Add beef to 6 quart Dutch oven and brown well over medium heat —about 10-15 minutes. Transfer to plate and set aside.
Add bacon until fat is rendered; add remaining butter, garlic and onions and cook until caramelized, about 20 minutes. Add half the beer, and cook scraping fond off bottom of pan reducing slightly. Return beef to pot with remaining beer, stock, sugar, vinegar and spices. Cook covered over medium heat about two hours, until beef is very tender.
Serve with hearty noodles and lots of bread to mop up the sauce. A hearty red wine is best, even though there are those who say if you cook with beer, you need to serve beer alongside — do what you wish.
SAVOYARDE POTATOES
Serves 4
3 tablespoons unsalted butter cut into small pieces
3 minced garlic cloves
2 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
11/2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese
About 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, cut in 1/4-inch slices
11/2 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
Preheat oven 375 F.
In small bowl mix together garlic, parsley, cheese and freshly ground pepper. Layer a third of the potatoes in a prepared 2-quart baking dish. Sprinkle a third of garlic cheese mixture over and dot with 1 tablespoon butter. Repeat layering procedure with half remaining potatoes, garlic mixture and final third of potatoes. Pour the stock over potato gratin and sprinkle with remaining garlic cheese mixture. Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking uncovered until the top is golden brown and crusty — 30 minutes longer.
COFFEE BRANDY CRÈME BRULEE
Serves 6
2 cups whipping cream
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 Tablespoon instant coffee (or espresso powder)
4 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon brandy
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons (packed) brown sugar
Preheat oven to 350 F.
Combine cream and sugar in saucepan and bring to a simmer stirring until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and add coffee whisking to dissolve. Whisk egg yolks in medium bowl and gradually whisk in warm cream, then brandy and vanilla. Strain custard. Arrange six 3/4-ounce ramekins (custard cups) in a 13-inch by 9-inch metal baking pan and pour hot water half way up sides of ramekins. Pour custard mixture into cups and bake 40-45 minutes. Chill until cold or overnight. Sift brown sugar evenly over cold custards and broil until sugar melts (or use torch). Watch broiler very carefully.
Serve within an hour or topping will lose its crisp texture.